I am writing these lines while sitting next to the motorhome facing the Ebro river. I am visiting the Delta de l’Ebre for the first time and I must admit that it has pleasantly surprised me, to the point of wondering why I had not done so until now. Moving through the long and flat roads that make up the Delta is a delight for the eyes and shows that traveling in a motorhome not only enjoys the destination, but also the road.
Being in El Delta is like traveling to another country, another continent, surrounded by nature, rice fields, the surround sound of birds, flamingos, nature in its purest form. I recommend you bring binoculars to enjoy this variety of birds up close. And for lovers of bicycle rides, here you will have your paradise as there are excellent bicycle routes on flat ground.
The Delta offers different faces depending on the time of year in which you travel and this depends on the rice growing cycle. In winter the brown color of the earth, in spring (my favorite time) they fill with water, as can be seen below in the photo, leaving a spectacular landscape. When the rice grows, the blue tone turns green as summer approaches. Finally, at the end of September they are already the golden color of their spikes, the time when the harvest begins.
ESSENTIAL THINGS TO DO IN THE DELTA DE L’EBRE
- Riding a Bicycle: For those who like to ride a bicycle, the Delta is an ideal place with hundreds of kilometers on the flat to ride. You should not miss the route that goes to the mouth of the Ebro Delta, you can enjoy the views of the rice fields through the enabled bike lanes. There are also viewpoints where you can see the immense variety of birds that exist in the delta. We leave from the motorhome parking in Deltebre, but there is also a motorhome parking less distance away near the Deltebre pier.
- Visit Trabucador beach: Trabucador beach is a beautiful beach where we have sea on both sides of the beach, an excellent place for lovers of kitesurfing, both to enjoy it and to see how they practice it. It is worth enjoying the sunset on this beach, you can also do it from the same motorhome since you can park right there, although it is not allowed to spend the night as it is a natural park.
- Visit the Fangar lighthouse: Here you can also enjoy a beautiful sunset, through a nice walk through its fine sand near the seashore while little by little you can see the fangar lighthouse, and where you can take some photos in an idyllic landscape. We went walking, we must bear in mind that the round trip is about two hours, from the tracks we saw, there are people who also do it by bike, although it should not be easy with the sand.
- Try the gastronomy of the Delta: There are places where its gastronomy stands out with native products and that we do not usually find easily in other places. This is the case of the Delta, that everything and being relatively close to Barcelona, we tried different characteristic dishes that are very worthwhile. Obviously rice is one of the star dishes. The most recommended are rice with blue crab, duck rice, rice with artichokes and cod.
- La Foradada: For lovers of hiking, this is a very good option. Located in the Montsià mountain range, it is the best viewpoint to appreciate the Ebro Delta in its entirety. The route is affordable, circular and with a distance of 5 km. At the top of the route is the Foradada. In about 4 hours you can do this tour. We recommend doing it on a day when the sky is clear and there is no fog, otherwise you will not be able to enjoy the landscape of the Delta. We leave you a link in case you want more information about the route: https://es.wikiloc.com/rutas-senderismo/serra-de-montsia-la-foradada-3408777#wp-3408778
PLACES TO EAT IN THE EBRO DELTA
- CASA DE FUSTA: Located in front of the Encanyissada lagoon, it is one of the best-known places to eat in the Ebro Delta. Of course, it is very worthwhile since you can taste the gastronomy of the Delta in an idyllic setting. It is ideal for families traveling with children. They also have a motorhome area. We leave you the link of the website where you can book and see all the activities they carry out: https://restaurantcasadefusta.com/es/. We recommend you book as we went on a weekday in low season and it was almost full. We recommend the sticky rice with duck meat and vegetables, the battered sea urchins and the eel suquet. For dessert you can try the Menjar blanc made with rice flour, milk and cinnamon. To finish, and if you don’t drive, it’s worth trying the rice liquor.
- L’ARROS DE LADIS ALCALÀ: This is surely less known than Casa de Fusta, but we loved it both for the location and the food. It is located in front of the Ebro river in the town of Deltebre, also right next to the town’s free motorhome area. They make a menu where you can taste various dishes and finish with a good rice. The quantities are also generous. As starters, we highlight the smoked eel. Second, the rice with cod and vegetables is well worth trying, especially if you like artichokes.
- CASA NURI: Also in front of the Ebro River, on the Buda Island of the Riumar urbanization, and in front of the jetty from where boats that sail along the Ebro River depart.
PLACES TO PARK AND OVERNIGHT IN THE EBRO DELTA
- CASA DE FUSTA MOTORHOME AREA (PAYMENT): Open all year round and located in front of the L’Encanyissada Lagoon, it has black and gray water and drinking water emptying. As a weak point, it does not have a power outlet, but this is the least necessary resource since our motorhomes have a solar panel and inverters that give us total autonomy. The price is €9 per night and access to services and €4 if we only want to use the gray and black water emptying services and fill the motorhome with water. https://restaurantcasadefusta.com/es/servicios-restaurant-estany-delta-del-ebro/
- POBLE NOU, 6 RONDA FORTALESA (FREE): There are no services and it is not located in a place with beautiful views, but it is a very good option for a first night where we have full supplies and we prefer not to pay for an overnight stay. It is also in Poblenou, which is very beautiful, and we can leave from there to cycle through the rice fields and go to Casa de Fusta, which is very close.
- DELTEBRE, 36 CARRER VERGE DEL CARME (€8/day): Although it is a car park without services, it was the one I liked the most because of its location, right in front of the Ebre river. Being able to wake up in this place and have breakfast is a luxury. It is a good point to do a bike route from the promenade to the mouth of the Ebre river. Although it is true that the price is high for not having services.
- SANT JAUME D’ENVEJA, 28 PASSEIG DE LA SEGREGACIÓ (FREE): A free alternative close to the previous one, although not with the same views and with the road somewhat close, although excessive noise is not heard.
- URBANITZACIÓ RIUMAR, DELTEBRE 19, T-340 (FREE): Parking located in front of the recommended Casa Nuri restaurant. Like many of the free car parks, it does not have services, but it is a good area to spend the night. Of course, you have to be well prepared for mosquitoes.
PLACES TO VISIT TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE ROUTE, MIRAVET:
It is highly recommended to visit this town, as little as you can, you should do it if you have not done it before. The town is located on the banks of the Ebro river and is dominated by the castle at the top of the mountain. Getting lost in its medieval streets is like traveling to another time. Of course, prepare to make legs if you want to reach the castle. Something that is very worthwhile as you can see in the photos, although nothing comparable to seeing it through your own eyes.
Once you have done the walk, I recommend you take a break at the Amadeus bar where they have the terrace with the best views. Here you can enjoy tapas and mixed dishes with excellent value for money, I recommend the homemade croquettes. If you can book better since it gets full when the day accompanies